The Most Beautiful Wave - Kai Lenny | The Portal Clips
“It’s the closest thing to a rideable tsunami there is because there’s no back to the wave.” – Kai Lenny
In this Portal podcast clip, Eric Weinstein discusses the sport of Big-wave surfing with professional Big-wave surfer, Kai Lenny.
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Clip Start: 00:16:47 (https://bit.ly/3fHNIs0)
Clip End: 00:24:12 (https://bit.ly/2Z0e6Yx)
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–QUOTES FROM THIS VIDEO:
“Waves, in general, are like cannons or like guns. So when you’re riding in the tube you can feel the air. It’s a vortex and so it’s sucking air in like a jet engine like, and then the wave, there’s so much water moving, the air can’t escape. So it goes the path of least resistance, which is back out the tube and it explodes, and shoots chunks of water that can knock you off your board.”
“Well riding inside a tube, a barrel…basically the hollow part of the wave as it pitches over, it’s unique because it’s the only way we can breathe underwater without any other breathing apparatus.”
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